For wall hangings 10″ – 25″, cut two squares that measure 4″. For wall hangings 26″ – 45″, cut two squares that measure 8″.

Fold each square in half to form a triangle. Place the raw edge corner that is created in the top corner of the quilt back. Repeat with the second triangle in the opposite top corner. Baste the corners to the edge of the quilt.

Stitch the binding to the quilt front as usual, sewing through the layers, including the triangle pieces. Tack down the binding as usual, covering the seam allowance and triangle raw edges.

Insert a dowel rod between the two triangles to hang your project. Place the rod over a nail to hang.To prevent the wall hanging from sagging in the center, be sure the dowel rod fits snuggly from end to end. If the rod fits snuggly between the triangles, the project will hang evenly and flat. If the bottom hem of your wall hanging wants to flap around, add the triangles to the two bottom corners and insert a dowel rod to help keep it flat and straight.

Keep in mind that the triangles need to be stitched before the binding is stitched to the quilt. Although it is easier to sew the triangles on before the binding is there, you could also sew the triangles on after the binding has been stitched on, but before it has been tacked down by hand to the back. Just be sure to skip stitching the mitered corner so the miter will turn correctly as the binding is flipped to the back.

For large quilts, the triangles do not give enough support to hold the quilt. A traditional quilt sleeve is the better method. If you do use the triangle method, your triangles will need to be larger and you may need a support in the center to hold the quilt to the rod. If you are entering a quilt or wall hanging for a contest or challenge, most shows will require a traditional quilt sleeve instead of the quicker method of sleeve triangles.